"THE WHELPING BOX"

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"Raising Puppies"


Supplies you may wish to have:


I have offered this information because I constantly get asked "what do I need" by new breeders.
There is so much information online about "whelping pups" but very little on what to do next.
I am offering my time and information, on this page so that hopefully no one will loose pups or experience
an expensive education like I did, when I first started out.
I will constantly update this page to add new and better options and information as it comes available.
If you are a Breeder with tips and tricks to add, please feel free to send them along for me to include.

HELPFUL LINKS

Canine Pregnancy Calendar
Canine Temperature Chart
Blank Canine Temperature Chart
(we have never used this as our mothers are very obvious about their pending deliveries)
Whelping/Birth Chart
Whelping/Birth Chart
Sponge Feeding Newborn (alternative to bottle feeding)




*Click to view styles of Puppy Rails for our Puppy Boxes
$65.00
*Click here to pay





Velcro ID Bands    ~    Marking ID Bands
Two styles of Puppy ID Bands available




*Click to view our Puppy ID Collars
"24" Puppy ID Collars
(Twelve Newborn ID Collar and Twelve Puppy ID Collars)
Price : $12.00
*Click here to pay





* Click to view our "Marking" Coloured ID Bands
"120" - Puppy ID Collars
Twelve colors
(10 of each color included)
Water resistant
Strong
Comfortable
Cut thinner or shorter
Can use marker on the bands
Gentle on shorter coated breeds (will not irritate)
$12.00 + $2.00 shipping
*Click here to pay




Whelping Pads
36"x 34" = $15.00/each
36"x 42" = $20.00/each
Wicks away moisture, to keep pups dry and warm
Made to last at least 300 washings
Non-skid durable backing
Ideal to use in our Whelping Box
The Canadian Ibex face fabric is durable and soft, provides traction, for nursing pups
*Click here to pay




Puppy Heating Pad
King Size: 12" x 24"
Maintains consistent heat, so pups do not chill
NO automatic shut off !!
Slide controller with large switch Features 3 heat settings (never put on high for pups)
long cord, to plug directly into outlet (extention cords can be fire hazards, be careful)
Soft machine washable cover for easy care, never ever put pups directly against uncovered heating pad
Not to be left unattended, not recommended on high for direct contact to puppies
ALWAYS use the provided cover and a barrier to flooring or whelping box and to puppies
For use in the middle of the whelping box for pups to stay warm when sleeping or nursing
Can also be used in a "bin" to keep pups warm while mother is busy whelping
$40.00
*Click here to pay



~ MY PUPPY NURSERY ~



(Whelping box with only 16" high sides)
This 'height' was special request from my husband who just has his hip replaced and wanted to try this


With the Whelping Box and the higher 20" sides, it keeps all the mess (lots of blood and fluids) contained.
I still do use a heavy tarp on the floor from Home Depot (found in the painting isle) as mom may drip on the way out the door.
You can use carpet as a cushion between hard floor and the Whelping Box, but not necessary.
I make sure the heating pad has a cotton jackets on it, so it does not burn the Whelping Box
Once the Whelping Box is in place, I lay dry sheathing, cut to fit, down inside the Whelping Box
then in the centre of the box, I lay a 12" x 24" COVERED heating pad set on "Medium" heat
(make sure it doesn't automatically shut off) and then I lay a 30" x 34" incontinent pad on top
You want to centre the heating pad, so that mom doesn't have to lay on it and cook, if she doesn't wish to.
having the heating pad in the middle, will encourage the pups to seek the warmth and stay out from the sides of the box.
Easier for mom to come in and lay down or get up and turn around to get more comfortable with the pups all in the middle.




(Mom delivering a puppy in our Whelping Box)

Now I'm ready for mom to whelp her pups.
As she has a mess after the birth, I can just lay a hand towel under her bum and over the soiled area to keep her dry.
When the incontinent pads get soaked, I gather pups into the bin
which usually will get mom out of the whelping box and I can either quickly change the soiled pad
or walk mom outside to toilet, while being watched and on a leash if she is not done delivering, and I change the pad.
I try to walk moms between delivering pups as I feel it gets the birthing moving.



(Whelping Box pad being changed, pups in a bin)


Always bring a flashlight and a hand towel, as never fails they have a puppy outside.
In the whelping room I also have a "boot tray" on which I have a bucket of fresh water and dry kibble for mom.
During delivery she eats the placentas, as that brings on further delivery, lets down milk and has excellent nutrients for mother.
Between pups on a large litter I may offer her some cottage cheese, for very important calcium.
Rolaids is another quick fix, however, this is not something to get worked up about.

Mother is bathed before delivering as well as having her belly shaved so nipples are exposed and her vulva to keep her clean
After our mom is done whelping, or the following morning, I will bath her "bottom and tail", to get rid of all the dried blood, so she is comfortable
and while she is in a cage under the dryer, I can clean her whelping box, place collars on the pups and take quick photos of pups
Now is also when I remove tails and dewclaws.

I also have a thermometer (from dollar store) in the room, and try to keep the temperature around 70- 20 degrees.
Generally a night table with a normal (old fashioned light bulb on) and a heating pad in the center of the whelping box
(closing floor vents and covering with a towel, blocking the air conditioning), will be warm enough for the pups.
However if mother is really panting, then I will crack the floor vent open to bring some cool air into the room so she is comfortable.
The whelping box's sides are high enough to trap heat in for the pups and mess from delivery contained.
IF you notice pups spreading out… then you know you have the room or heating pad too hot.
IF you notice pups shivering, or moving around to get closer together piling up constantly, then you know it is too cool.

We use our newly designed Whelping Box which fits nicely into the corner
and the Whelping Box sides are high enough to keep the warmth and mess, inside the box
and no more being woken up over screaming pups trapped behind mom, (or worse finding squished dead pups)
because our Whelping Box has puppy rails !




You will often have to force mom to be in the area you wish mom to be in.
Never let a "new mother" get used to being on the furniture or even on your bed the week, she is due to whelp
because when the time comes she will be determined to whelp there and you don't want that mess or inconvenience.
She will mentally be "just fine", where ever "you" decide is best for her to whelp.
Bedrooms with doors, or a laundry room, work the best to "contain" her and the mess and noise.
A Breeder is going to need a good night's sleep in order to properly care for new pups and need their wits about them.
NEVER have a litter of pups in the room you plan on sleeping in, cause you need your SLEEP..

A week before mother is due to have her pups, you may have to even sit in the whelping box, to encourage
her, telling her what a "good girl" she is for being in there, several times a day and even give treats in the box.
When the time comes she will know this is the "good safe place" to have her pups.

I have our whelping box in my Nursery room, where the temperature is maintained around 20 degrees.
I can't stress enough to escort mother outside to potty, on a leash the week that she is due and to always have a hand towel
and flashlight with you at night time. IF your yard is not 100% contained (no open decks) then make sure 100%
to always put a collar and "flexi" leash on her, as so many people I know have lost a litter, with mom getting away
and delivering under decks or out in the woods ect.
Also if you go to dog events, it is great to have a separate area for nursing mom's to toilet, separate from the other dogs
so they don't get kennel cough or parvo



babymonitor
Great idea when you have mom in a seperate bedroom so
you don't keep gettiing up in the middle of the night disturbing mom
Sears for $199.00
Digital Color Video & Audio, 150 meters / 450 feet
4-Way controller allows you to pan (240º) and tilt (130º) the camera to give you the best possible view of your Mom and pups
3.5" Portable LCD color monitor with a built-in rechargeable lithium battery, view from anywhere in the world using Skype


...
ALWAYS have a towel and a leash and a flashlight near the door !!!
Because mom will often ask to go outside and will then be looking for "den" such as under the deck.
You have to make sure you know where mom is at all times when she starts panting and shivering as time is near
I try to have at least 12 hand towels and in white nearby. I prefer hand towels as they are the perfect size for cleaning one puppy
and not have the puppy get caught up in the towel or towel hanging and just plain too big.
I get white so that I can bleach them clean again. Because I will use these for years of whelping I also buy a decent
quality one from Walmart and not the dollar store...

You may have to force her back into that room when the time comes, but she will soon settle.
SAFETY for the pups is more important that her wishing to have her pups on your bed !
I don't worry about the whelping box being "tidy" and set up perfectly, because as soon as she
starts "nesting" I know she is going to start digging and shredding anything in the puppy box.
She will not settle and keep everything tidy until the last puppy is born.




As she delivers I take the puppy and clean the face ASAP so puppy can breath and not drown.
I then cut the cord before mother can cause an umbilical hernia, leaving mom to eat the placenta, when ever it comes out.
I make sure not to make a "clean" cut on the cord or it will not stop bleeding. BUT if you do, pinch the cord between
your fingers for 2 minutes and should stop, or clamp off with a hemostat you have on hand.
I dry and rub, puppy and hold "head down" and firm, so that puppy's mouth and lungs can drain and i do this until puppy cries.
Try not to shake their head, as this can cause neurological permanent damage.

Puppy is then put into my basin on towel with a heating pad to dry and warm up.
Cold puppies can't nurse or digest food. Their heart rates drop and the circulatory and respiratory systems collapse and they soon fade (die).
The next puppy will be 20 minutes to 2 hours in coming.
But don't panic if you have different delivery times.
I have had a totally healthy puppy born 12 and another 24 hours after I thought mom was done.
Trust your mother… if she looks panicked with whites of her eyes showing and is restless and shivering then something is wrong.
But if she is just tired and panting a bit, but her eyes look calm, then she is usually just fine.
In 24 years of owning large breed dogs I have never needed a C-section. Many breeders just panic
when things don't go like they have read that they should.
Walking your female for 5 minutes, after each puppy, may also help stimulate delivery.

As soon as puppy is dry and feel warm... I will put puppy on a nipple to nurse
OR if mother is really wanting her puppy, then I will snug another heating pad under the puppy and let them be with mother.
Pups soon decide for themselves which nipple they prefer and they will always go back to that nipple.
Let them choose a desired location and squeeze out a bit of milk for them to help them learn, if they have trouble latching on.
Nursing pups, aid in stimulating whelping and will also will aid in milk "let down".

Milk "lets down" that means that the milk is flowing freely. You will notice that when the litter nurses they are noisy at first
they may move a lot and push and pull. This is to get the milk to "let down".
Just because you can squeeze and see milk, does not mean it is flowing freely (let down).
Once the milk "lets down" you will see the pups get totally still and they become extremely quiet and content.
As the milk basically pours into their mouths.

As soon as mother starts to deliver another puppy I gather all the current pups and put into a warm basin so she does not step on them
and to get them warmed up... I put cold wet pups into basin and rotate out the dry ones for her to take care of and nurse.
I also change bedding as needed to keep her dry and comfortable

When mom is done delivering, her panting and shivering, subsides and her look of distress also subsides.
she gets calm, tired content eyes.
She will calmly lay there and will just occasionally lick and clean her pups.
Pups can not poo or pee on their own. It is mom's licking their genitals that keeps puppy alive
by her licking them there to stimulate defecation and voiding (peeing and pooping)




After mother is done delivering, I put her outside, supervised by a friend or spouse.
I quickly clean the Whelping Box, lay new dry sheathing paper and new incontinent pad over heating pad.
I also will then put mom into the tub and give her rear a quick bath to clean her up and have her comfortable
and place her in a cage with a dryer on her while I remove tail and dewclaws, put Puppy ID Collars on puppies.
and even will take individual photos and group photos if there is enough time.
When mom comes in and lays down (sometimes I force a new mother, to settle and lay down and not fuss so much with pups)
and then place each puppy near a nipple and make sure all dry warm pups are successfully nursing.



Scissors any type but kids blunted ones or medical ones are safer.
I use these after they have been sterilized with hydrogen peroxide.
I use these to cut embilical cords rather than let mom do it and risk her pulling and giving them hernias.



I use to clean any equipment and or any wounds on my dogs



Pen and Paper or even better a printed chart, to mark down: Time, Sex, Colour (including mismarks), weight if you want (we never bother)



You will need a scale eventually for deworming.
Some breeders weigh new borns and monitor weekly though.
You will need a scale that will weigh grams and up to at least 10lbs, prefer greater.



I like to take photos of the newborns and of course them nursiing with mother.
You never get these moments back. Just make sure there is not any gore in the photos
because no matter how "charming" it appears, puppy people will be horrified by any messes.



Plastic Basin
You can get these at the dollar store.
Have a 12"x12" basin handy ready with a heating pad in it covered by a hand towel and another hand towel ready to cover pups
As pups are born and cleaned you can put them in there to cover with towel and keep warm
while mom finishes delivering, if she is not too upset about it. Never put puppy on a bare heating pad. Heating pad on Medium is usually adequate.
Remember a cold puppy will die if it nurses.


Hershey Thumbnail... ...
Locking needle nose hemostat (for removing dewclaw) and disposable scalpel (for removing dewclaw)
available on amazon or ebay or tack store.
Some breeders just use large nail clippers.
At 1-3 days you should remove the dewclaws. Photos and information on this page:
Tail and Dewclaw Removal



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Electric Heating Pad – I usually use a larger heating pad 24", as I have larger litters and want all the pups to find a warm spot in the middle of the box.
Newborn to 14 days of age, we want room temperature to be around 20 degrees
because pups can not regulate their own body temperature (they can't get warm themselves)
I use the heating pad for the first 2 weeks, until their eyes open which is generally around the same
time that they can generate their own body temperature and are able to generate heat through shivering
IF you see pups all spread out, then you know your temperature is too high and not comfortable for them.
IF you see the pups in a puppy pile and whining then you know the puppy box is too cold
You want to see pups all quiet and lined up as this tells you they are warm and comfortable.
Keeping a heating pad and pups in the middle of the whelping box, also helps to ensure mom doesn't lay on pups.
I use the Sunbeam heating pads designed for humans that also do not have a timer to turn off heat.
You can purchase at any drug store or Walmart for around $40.00 that usually has 3 settings.
Keep on light or medium heat. Make sure mother is not too hot or she will move the pups out.

For the first 14 days I want to ensure pups are warm enough so I place dry sheathing down and
the heating pad on medium on top of that and then an incontinent pad (heavy material) ontop of that.
Make sure you do not buy the heating pads that are on timers and shut off automatically.
If you read online you will hear a few horror stories of pups being burned by human designed heating pads.
Although I have not experienced it first hand, I have seen it on bulldog pups my friend bred.
A few other breeders have recommended "Lectro-Kennel Heating Pad"
or other temperature regulated pet specific heating pads that you can find at TSC Farm Supply Stores, Pet stores or online on amazon.
However I have found that young pups fall off of that hard plastic pad's because they
have a higher edge and they can't get back onto it. Don't use that one.
In 2011 I found a "pet" heating pad at Walmart online and bought it. It only had one temperature
setting but it was 24" long. It has worked well enough for my needs and had a longer cord which was also nice.

 




Incontinent Pads
Wicks away moisture, to keep pups dry and warm
Made to last at least 300 washings
Non-skid durable backing
Ideal to use in our Whelping Box
I use these during delivery and for the first night until mom is all cleaned up.
I have also used these under food dishes when first feeding pups.
The Canadian Ibex face fabric is durable and soft, provides traction, for nursing pups
*Click to read more or to order

 


In 2015 I heard of a product called Veterinary Fleece.
I'm now using this product for my pups day two until the pups go home, just reducing the size as they mature.
For 25 years I swore by incontinent pads and for whelping I still do love those
However after 14 days on pads I now switch to the Vet Fleece as it is just nicer for both mom and pups
and I only have to change it every 24-48 hours instead of every 4 hours I was doing with incontinent pads.
Of course there are pro's and cons to every product so do read my review and the article to decide for yourself:
*Click to read more about Vet Fleece, what is the difference and where to purchase it



Breeder friends of mine actually prefer the woven floor mats to put into their whelping areas
because they say that the material provides a better 'grip' for the pups to learn to walk faster
I decided to review this.
I'm not sure if they wash their pup's bedding as much as I do, because after 6 washes these mats
were falling apart. I change my pups morning, noon and night and I always keep bedding clean and dry
so we do a ton of laundry to raise clean pups. I bought 12 mats at $5.00/each at Walmart and they lasted 1 week !
The good part is that they stayed in place because of the backing. Did provide the pups a nice designated sleeping area
did provide a non-slip surface for the pups. I may use these again, as I did like to offer the pups that area to sleep on that won't slip or move
and this aided them in toilet training to the potty area. At 6-8 weeks of age these mats are useless for me as the pups start using them as a toy.
I could buy heavier mats similar style but was afraid would be hard on my washing machine.


...

Newspapers .............Storage Bin
Financial newspapers or Major City Newspapers are perfect as they are generally thicker. Recycle bins are the best for finding free newspapers.
I keep mine dry and clean in black Tupperware bins that can stack as I collect all year long.
Matter of fact family and friends collect newspapers for me and give to me at Christmas... best present for a breeder..
In the Puppy Box I lay them out flat in the elimination area (pee/poo area) I lay a dry sheathing first, then lay a thin flat newspaper and then I tare up shredded newspaper for over top of the flat paper,
as the shredded paper will stick and cover feces and cover urine up and keeps pups from tracking through feces.
Elimination area is the perfect width for a section of newspaper so that it rolls up and is easy to toss into a nearby garbage can.
A friend mentioned that Home Depot carries heavy thick paper on a 3 foot roll in the roofing section
without any ink on it and I have tried it and LOVED it. It is called "Dry Sheathing".
This works great as dries fast and does not move like newspapers and looks tidy. It does cost $12.00-$16.00 a roll
Also make sure to store your newspapers in a Storage Bin. People have had their basements flooded, dogs pee on them ect.
having them stored in a bin will make it easier to move around as well.


...
Standard Dry Sheathing
This roll product is made from a uniform flexible felt of organic fibres.
This product is used under shingles and or hard wood flooring.
Also this product keeps pups dry and free of newsprint and will not be messy like newspapers
and mother can't really dig this up easily. I put the edges under my whelping box ends to hold in place
You can get this product from Home Depot for usually around $18.00/roll
Or roofing or flooring companies.



Puppy ID Bands………. Puppy Marking ID Bands

Wow professional looking Puppy ID Collars
Puppies will eventually have to be Identified
Many breeders use coloured Crimped curling ribbon or gift wrap ribbon.
But we have had a puppy get it caught in their mouth and cut their corners of their mouth open
and puppy unable to nurse until we discovered it. This prompted me to search out alternatives.
Professional ID bands just look clean and "PROFESSIONAL" and less like a back yard breeder.
Collars also help puppy people clearly identify which puppy is which, during communication wtih you
Our Puppy ID Collars, newborn size, are easy to apply, as soon as they are born
which helps a breeder keep track of who is nursing or who is having problems
so they can assist the struggling puppy keep up with it's litter mates.
Puppy ID Collars are easy to see in videos and photos, which puppy people love.
The velcro, are also washable for reuse, however cheap enough that we use fresh package each litter.
We have added several colours for all breeds and we also have newborn sized collars
so you don't have to wrap the collar around 3x and in the Marking ID Bands we have up to 16 different colours to choose from.
We have our Puppy ID Collars priced affordable.
*Click to read more or to order



 



Garbage Can with Lid – Laugh if you will, but many people forget the obvious.
Kitchen garbage cans are not big enough to manage the soiled newspapers.
Outdoor garbage can and garbage bags do perfectly.
Make sure you get a lid. I buy bulk garbage bags at Costco (Kirkland pink box ones) that fit.



Poop Scoop Bags
Not every puppy makes it so it is handy to have these available to double bag any bodies
for disposale in the garbage. Make sure mom doesn't see you do this and also remove from mom's location
as she has super sensitive smell and will know exactly where you put this, even outside she will topple cans to get to this.
Some breeders hold in a freezer to avoid any smells outside, until garbage day in the summer.


...
Cleaning caddys and dustpans found at Walmart and Dollar stores
work well to hook over the puppy box and expens out of reach of the pups
to hold cleaning items as well as collecting up puppy toys when you change the box's papers.


 


Disposable Wipes – I have been using the Costco "Kirkland" disposable wipes that come in a 3 package (different scents) and a dispenser...
as it has a bit of an abrasiveness to it so it scrubs off stains very well and will withstand my scrubbing
without it without falling apart. Plus the dispenser is easy to use with one hand after you break a couple of the plastic teeth
on the top. I do not use them to clean the pups and I let the wiped area dry, or put newsprint over the area before putting
pups in an area just cleaned.



Clorox Bleach
Clorox Bleach is trusted as a whitener, stain remover and disinfectant.
It kills germs on the surface and keeps your home and kennels clean, as well as your clothes.
Mix 40mls of bleach to every gallon of water and apply to areas to be clean.
Make sure to remove all visable fecal matter first.
Let bleach mixture sit on surfaces for about three minutes then hose or wash down with plain water.
Once your swimming pools, whelping boxes, kennels or runs are dried its time to replace the dogs.
Remember if you use blankets, other fabrics or materials as bedding they should be cleaned with bleach also.
Food and water bowls as well as toys should be included.
Clorox causes rust on metal cages so make sure and rinse everything it touches.


 


.... ........
Clamp used to fasten 2' panels together...Walk Through Gate... Latch that secures the gate
Great system as you can configure to any size or shape you need.
I used the extra panels to section off a puppy play area

We use the panels around our Puppy Box to make sure mom doesn't hop out
Later we use this at the end of the puppy box to give the pups an area outside the box to toilet.
You can buy this at the local Petsmart called Uptown Dog Kennel
which we got on sale for less than the $199.99 listed price
Now Walmart ($246.88 US ASPCA Premium Dog Kennel, Lucky Dog Kennel 4'x4'x6') are carrying similar products
I just didn't add the top of it on and I didn't use all the panels.
You can see an example of how some Breeders use to expand puppy living area here: Kennel
I use the extra 2 foot panels to make a puppy pen or extra dog run if I need it.
I make my own door using tie wraps for a hinge and a Carabeener for the latch.
Rather than buy a latch from Home Depot.
Of course many breeders just us Expen's to surround the whelping box and drap disposible tarps over
for added privacy and to contain any messes, should this be needed.
Walmart so far is the cheapest I have found for 48" black xpens


... ...
Strongid T
You can get this from horse supply stores, feed stores, online and from your vet.
In 2013 we pay $113.00 + tax for 600 mls at our Vet
This is a horse wormer used by breeders to deworm their pups.
ALL pups will have worms. This broad-spectrum wormer removes and controls infections
with adult strongyles (Strongylus vulgaris, S. edentates, S. equines), small strongyles,
large roundworms (Parascaris equorum), and pinworms.
We deworm our pups with 1cc strongid per 10lbs.
I buy 1cc syringes (TB syringes are the best) and remove the needle to administer the liquid.
I deworm at 14 days and 15 days of age and repeat at 25 and 26 days of age.
Back to back doses ensures I get adult worms and newly hatched worms
I also deworm the mother when the pups are weaned.



Bistro or other automatic Water dispenser
– I leave a bucket of water for mom outside of the Puppy Box. Inside the Puppy Box I put an automatic water dispenser
as the pups (and mom) go through an enormous amount of water.
This way I always know that they have water available and it is a non tipping dish that they will not drown in as has a shallower edge/rim.

I also fill a bistro feeder full of kibble and leave 24/7 so they can always have fresh kibble
to wean onto.
IF I have pups that play in water then I can also use the "no spill" travel dish (just not using the middle part)
or I have used the Poultry waterers which ever the pups will not play in, but will drink out of.



Photo of mom weaning her pups



At around 8 weeks of age the pups find it fun to tip the bistro feeder so then I switch
to the heavy ceramic to leave dry kibble in.

 


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Stainless Steel Non Tip Pet Dish – Twice a day I put hard kibble ~softened~ with warm water in this dish in the Puppy box for pups.
After a few minutes I allow mom to joim them and she cleans up the mess.
You can find this dish at pet stores or at TSC Farm Supply Store or at Pet Stores or Online.
This just helps to make sure every puppy gets some food and doesn’t get crowded out
and that the food doesn't tip over which wastes a lot of kibble and makes a mess.




Rubber Boot Tray to sit the dishes on so water doesn't spill everywhere



Top Paw Pet Yard Containment Pen or Superyard XT* or North State - Superyard XT Portable Playard
This LIGHT WEIGHT, easy to clean with a garden hose, expandable six-panel pet yard
can be set up easily and changed to accommodate a variety of shapes and sizes. Does not rust like xpens do.
I attach two of these yards together to provide an adequate area for a 6-8 week old litter in a rectangle shape if using to toilet train.
When pups go home people can start toilet training them by forming a rectangle shape and putting sleeping area and toys at one end
and papers at the other end. I like this pen to put outside to put the pups into when people come to see them, configure to a circle.
I can put one of those "quick up" 10' x 10' canopies over it (lowered) to provide shade and to keep them safe from birds of prey.
Comes with six 30 in. W by 26 in. H inter-locking panels. You create a gate by sliding and lifting the panels apart
or use tie wrap and double ended snap latches. I put two of these sets together to make a bigger puppy pen.
I have had my same ones for over 10 years. Easy to clean, durable and totally portable.
These also come apart in 2 panel sections which can be used to block doorways and stairs
Two pannels will block an average porch or deck openning and is cheaper than buying baby gates.
Petco, You can usually get these used at used baby shops or new at Toys R Us and Sears or Walmart online $45.00



Are you going to send your pups home spayed or neutered or with a tubal or vasectomy ?
We do this procedure at 5-7 weeks of age, removing the stitches ourselves 1 week later before pups go home
If you sell intact purebred pups, 100% one or more of those pups will be bred.
Holding back "papers" (which mean nothing today in the "designer" dog world) or signing non-breeding contracts
are useless as they are not enforceable, nor do they stop the dogs from breeding, and the damage is already done then.
Contracts just provide breeders with a false sense of security, nothing more.
Tubals and Vasectomys keep the hormones functioning and is a good alternative to the more masculine, bully breeds
Altering pups prior to them going home, means less money in the Breeder's pocket, but
is the only way to 100% ensure pups you sell are going to loving pet homes you intended and not some puppy mill.
Various methods outlined on this web page:
Pediatric Alteration
We have a vet that does the procedure for around $140.00/puppy including an International Health Certificate.



Are you sending your pups home "intact" ?
If you are you had better come up with a legal document outlining consequences should someone not
alter their puppy by a specific date. Also think about how you are going to enforce those consequences.
Now is also the time to draw up what type of guarantee to offer your puppy people as well.


....
Vanguard® Puppy Plus 5 by Pfizer
Are you going to vaccinate at 7 or 8 weeks of age ?
are you going to the Vet or are you going to do yourself ?
Most Vets and Breeders use the "Puppy Shot" that includes:
Distemper, Adenovirus Type 2, Parainfluenza, Parvo (MLV)
We do our own shots using the above vaccine and we order syringes online
You can of course use diabetic needles from any drug store, but I like the 1cc syringes with
detachable needle end so that I can also use them for deworming or administering peroxide on a wound



You may also want to order some Microchips
Here is a link on Microchip Information
and you are NOTrestricted to buying from CKC or from a Vet



Time to register pups is as soon as they are born so that your puppy people can go home
with their registration papers and you have time to correct any mistakes you may have made as well.
If you are planning on keeping a puppy, check your show calendar and make sure your puppy will be 6 months
of age for the show near you, you would like to attend with the new puppy. If he is too young by a day or two, then
you can always just backdate the papers a couple days so you can hit that show.
Here is a link on Registering your Litter



Dollar Stores
These stores are a Breeder's shopping heaven.
Puppy toys, collars, leashes, puppy pads, grooming tools
Great ideas for your puppy packages.